1 (edited by HansumKingtut 05-31-2012 18:40:16)

Topic: Dead Motor?

I Saw a few people having this issue on the new AR.drone 2.0 but i had just had this happen to me. i use an Ar.drone 1.0.
I was using my drone just fine everything worked until about 20mins ago, The "Motor Emergency" came up on my iPhone so i turned my drone off and back on and still not working, I'm just about to try a reset. Motor 1 is showing "Type 0.0" "Hardware 0.0" and "Software 0.0" all the others are Type 1.1, Hardware 3.0, Software 1.41.

Anyone know how to solve this issue. I've been flying fine till now. I've even been flying fine with the new update.

No recent crashing or hard landings. just normal flight

UPDATE: Tried to Reset the Drone, no change.

Also i forgot to say, the other 3 motors jiggle at start, #1 doesn't.

Re: Dead Motor?

hi HansumKingtut,

If Motor 1 is not displayed within the setting interface and is not jiggling on start like to others, it might be defective. To make sure, while the drone is turned off,  try to spin the propeller manually: if you feel any resistance then you would need to change this motor with a new one.

Re: Dead Motor?

Same issue here with my ar drone 2.0, motor 2 is all 0s, and it doesn't twitch on startup. It spins just fine by hand tho. I've owned this drone for less than 24 hours sad

Re: Dead Motor?

I have two motors for $45 each with free shipping to 48 us states if you need let me know.

AR Drone 2.0  software 2.1.16
iPad 2 IOS 5.1
Ebay Store Selling spare Drone parts and custom Bottom plates and covers for the Drone
http://www.ebay.com/sch/jwallen543/m.ht … ksid=p3686

Re: Dead Motor?

I had the same issue, Motor 1 not working, not twiching either and no red light on, appears dead. When connecting another motor (from another drone - just disconnecting the cable and connecting it while laying across each other), the same happens with the other motor.
But the other drone works just fine.
I had taken the main board out and that where the problem started - not so much the main board, but the actual connector from the cross-bar to the main board.
Here is how to find out - you need to have a multi-meter.
1) first connect the battery and measure across the outer connectors leads on the motor board (red wire is +12V and black wire is ground)
All the red and black wires from each motor are connected on one 8pin connector to the main board - you will see pairs of red and black cables. Those deliver the power.
The center 3 wires with different colors are for the control signals (I do not know exactly the details - just a good guess) and each of these 3 wires go together to another connector (total 12 pins) and connect to the main board.
Motor 1 for pins 1,2,3 Motor 2 for pins 4-6 and so on.
So here the next step
2) disconnect the battery and un-mount the main board, but no not disconnect the motor control signal connector. Measure on the leads of the connector on the main board (that's the best place to place a probe) and the corresponding lead of the connector on the motor's board (again use the solder lead on the board, which gives you the best access for probing)
Motor one is the one twiching the first during start-up (hmmm if you remember once when all was working ;-) and Motor 4 twiches last.
In case you do not remember: sitting in the pilot seat motor one is the front left, motor 2 is on the front right. Motor 3 on the rear right and Motor 4 on the rear left.
The numbers are also imprinted on the cross-bard, but only once you removed the main board you can see those numbers.
In my case the problem was that pin 1 of the control-signal connector did not connect to the corresponding pin on the motor side. and the problem was the crimp-pin inside the cable on the connector which connects to the main board. This explained why changing the motor would not result in any change. And if I would have changed the main board there would not have been any different either.
It was worth the trouble and even if you would have to buy a multi meter from Radio Shack for $9.90